Brake cables need to be adjusted so that a/ the brake lever doesn’t bottom out on the handlebar, b/ the brakes don’t rub while you are riding (feels like you have left the handbrake on).

These adjustments can be made through the barrel adjusters on both the hub and brake lever. Wind them away from the lever for a tighter cable or in for a slacker one (slacker if its rubbing, tighter if brake lever travels too far). Note with Greenspeed’s famous centre point steering and independent front brakes, normal braking may be done with either hand, leaving the other free for signalling. For emergency braking and/or high speed both hands are used.

Now for the fun of gear adjusting. We will start with the front derailleur as it is easier to adjust but gives you a good start for the rear.

Firstly determine the problem you are having, is it a/ won’t go into the large chain ring or b/ won’t go into the smallest chain ring?

a/ The cable may have stretched. Check this by returning the chain to the smallest chain ring (shifter all the way forward) and feeling the cable between the cable stop and the derailleur, is it excessively slack? If so undo the cable pinch bolt and pull through the excess cable and tighten pinch bolt. Try shifting to the large chain ring again. If it still doesn’t work turn the ‘H’ limit screw (small screws on top of the derailleur) out by quarter turns each time and retry the shift. If you unscrew it too far, the chain will fall off the other side.

b/ Loosen off the ‘L’ limit screw slowly and it should drop down, if not the cable may be too tight. To check this, undo the cable pinch bolt, loosen the limit screw again until it drops down and reattach the cable. Double check that it still goes into the large ring.

Also check the cable to see if it is still running smooth by undoing the pinch bolt, holding the cable in one hand and shifting with the other hand. Lubricate or replace the cable if it is hard or rough to pull through.

If neither of these things work, your derailleur could be worn or misaligned. Ring Greenspeed or take to your local bike shop for further assistance.

The rear derailleur is similar in that if it won’t go into the larger sprockets there is not enough cable tension, or into the smaller sprockets there is not enough cable slack. Turn the barrel screw in for slack and out for tension. As with the front derailleur, use the limit screws only as a last resort, as these don’t affect the indexing of your gears. Loosen the ‘H’ screw if it won’t go into the smallest sprocket or tighten if it goes between the smallest cog and the dropout. Loosen the ‘L’ screw if it won’t go into the largest sprocket or tighten it so that the derailleur doesn’t go into the spokes (not too good if this happens). If you run out of adjustment with the barrel screw you will need to wind it all the way back in, put the shifter all the way forward and loosen the pinch bolt and pull through the excess cable and tighten the pinch bolt again.

Also check the cable to see if it is still running smoothly by undoing the pinch bolt, holding the cable in one hand and shifting with the other hand. Lubricate or replace the cable if it is hard or rough to pull through.

If neither of these things work, your derailleur could be worn or your derailleur hanger misaligned (bent through an accident). Contact Greenspeed or take to your local bike shop for further assistance.